Tzoumerka is the largely inaccessible and isolated mountainous district in southeastern Epirus, between the Arachthos and Acheloos rivers in western Greece, where the ancient mythical hero Athamas established his kingdom. Many summits here rise to over 2,000 meters, and along with the region’s forests, waterfalls and rivers, compose an inspiring setting. Athamas’ subjects acquired a reputation as fierce fighters, an opinion which has been inherited down the line by their descendants.
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Many of the present villages in the area were established in the 14th and 15th centuries and played an active role in subsequent Greek history, notably in the rise against the Ottoman Turks and the resistance against the Germans in World War II. Several villages, such as Melissourgi, Theodoriana and Voulgareli, suffered severe reprisals by the occupiers.
Starting from the town of Arta, the broader area’s administrative center, follow the road ascending along the left bank of the Arachthos toward Agnanta. The villages of Elatos, Pistiana, Rodavgi, Skoupa, Platanousa and Monolithi offer a beautiful introduction to the area, despite being enclosed by mountains.
Past Monolithi, cross the river over an iron bridge and after a short distance you’ll reach the stone bridge of Plaka -- an architectural masterpiece built in 1866, with a single arch spanning 40 meters. Follow the signs south to the village of Katarraktis (Waterfall) and over the next 12 km take some time to look above. The roar of the waterfall, more than 100 m high, can be heard throughout the surrounding valleys even before the village of Milea, 4 km away. In Katarraktis, the sound has a soothing effect -- though this is not the case in the summer, when the water slows to a trickle. The setting is breathtaking.
The Agnanta area, northeast of Plaka on the western approaches to the snow-capped summits of Tzoumerka, includes several beautiful villages worth touring. Near Ktistades, 5.5 km north, is the Anemotrypa Cave, while 4 km away is the village of Pramanta, nestled at the foot of Strogoula summit (2,100 m), which casts its shadow over the gorge of the Melissourgiotikos River and the Kakarditsa range.
Pramanta is one of the liveliest villages in mountainous central Greece, with schools, shops, a health center and a library. Its highlight is the Church of Aghia Paraskevi, which shares the central square with an old plane tree and the Arapis spring.
About 2 km east is the settlement of Tsopelas, with some beautiful villas and guesthouses. An equal distance down the road is the crossroad leading on the right to the Monastery of Aghia Paraskevi and the mountain refuge at Isioma. Just before the village of Melissourgi, the road brings you to wonderful alpine meadows.
North of Pramanta, the road leads downhill to Prosilio and Syrrako. About 20 km on, the view of Syrrako and Kalarrytes further east is even more rugged and breathtaking. These are two of Greece’s most amazing traditional settlements -- with few inhabitants in winter. You have to leave the car outside Syrrako and walk the cobblestone path into the village. From the square, follow the path down into the gorge of the Kalarrytikos River and over the small iron bridge. This was the border between Greece and Turkey until 1913. The path ascends and, less than two hours after leaving Syrrako, flanked by another stunning waterfall visible from the opposite bank , you’ll reach Kalarrytes, full of wonderful, old stone mansions built by local traders and goldsmiths who made fortunes abroad -- the most famous being Sotirios Voulgaris, founder of the Bulgari luxury brand.
Transport
From Athens there are two options: either via the Rio-Antirio bridge and Arta (460 km) or via Trikala (slightly longer but more scenic). From Thessaloniki, it is a two-and-a-half hour drive to Ioannina (380 km), from where you either cross the Arachthos River at Politsa bridge or Tsibovou bridge over the Kalarrytikos River. There are only two gas stations in the district, one at Plaka, just after the bridge, and another at Pramanta, at the entrance to the village, so fill up. Caution: Make sure you have cash before setting out as there are no ATMs around.
What to see & activities
The Arachthos River is very popular for rafting, with four routes of different degrees of difficulty; the 9-kilometer stretch between the bridges of Politsa and Plaka includes a waterfall in a gorge. Contact Trekking Hellas (tel 6972.887.860) or Via Natura (tel 26850.31200); see the Plaka Monastery, of unknown age and last renovated in 1665, the superb 13th-century Monastery of Theotokos Kipina, tucked into a recess in a bluff on the way to Kalarrytes, and the Pantelis Karalis Museum of Popular Art and Life (tel 26850.71390) in Kypseli.
Napoleon who?
Tzoumerka is the one of the few areas in Greece where baby boys are given the name Napoleon. Many were christened so by Napoleon Zervas, a resistance leader during World War II. But it seems that the line goes back to the times of the French emperor, when his navy placed an order for woolen caps with the famously skilled tailors and weavers of Syrrako and Kalarrytes, which already had extensive trading relations with the West. The ties may have been strengthened by the fact that the locals’ native language was the Latin-based Vlach.
info: ekathimerini.gr By Haris Argyropoulos
