
Pavliani is a beautiful village crowned by fir forest on Mount Oiti -- one of the country’s most accessible mountains, just two hours by car northwest of Athens. At an altitude of about 1,050 meters, it marks the entrance to Oiti National Park. Pavliani’s hospitable inhabitants, mainly occupied with farming and logging, have built their houses of wood and stone, with steep roofs to withstand the weight of snow in winter. Logs are piled on the side of streets and the smooth mountain slopes in the wider area are ideal for cross-country skiing. In spring, the blooming apple orchards that adorn the lower approaches to the village are a sight to behold.
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The area has been known since antiquity. The remains of the 3rd-century BC Doric temple dedicated to mythical hero Hercules can be found at Pyra (altitude 1,800 m) -- this is the location where Hercules supposedly made a pyre to rid himself of the poisoned shirt of Nessus, which his wife Deianira was tricked into giving him. Taking pity on him, Zeus made him a demigod.
The entrance to Pavliani, which is divided into “lower” (Kato) and “upper” (Ano) districts, is marked with a monument to those who fell during a fierce battle with the Germans in June 1943.
A first-time visitor starting on the path connecting the two communities may be caught unprepared by the wonder that follows. At the beginning there is a spot where locals used to wash their clothes and which has now been restored. After a few minutes’ walk you come to the stunning natural park where the Asopos River begins, with magnificent old trees and a large recreation area constructed with a great deal of imagination and inspiration. On the left is the forest, on the right the river. For the daring visitor, tree logs connect the two banks of the river (it may be advisable to leave valuables behind). Alternatively, a seat rolling along two ropes is also available. There are sports installations, picnic benches, swings and barbecue areas -- it is a truly wonderful spot not to be missed.
Ano Pavliani has evident signs of rapid growth in recent years, thanks to the Habitat Agenda, an EU-funded pilot program that provides for sustainable development projects. If the walk through the park has not whetted your appetite enough to sample the fare in one of the several tavernas, you can continue on any of a variety of walking routes for which Pavliani is an ideal base. One of the best is the hike to Katavothra cave -- a sinkhole into which the waters disappear with an eerie roar only to reappear at the waterfalls in the steep Gorgopotamos river gorge much further away. From here, the views to the neighboring mountains of Vardousia to the west and Giona to the south are superb.
The walks to Pyra and to Katavothra from Ano Pavliani both take about two hours but care is called for as signposting is poor. Other routes lead to the summits of Kouvellos and Greveno as well as to the alpine refuge in the National Park.
Those of frailer form will enjoy the walks to the meadows above the village, which become spectacularly colorful in spring -- and to the Chapel of Profitis Ilias -- about half an hour away and offering fine views.
How to get there
Pavliani is 240 kilometers from Athens and 340 from Thessaloniki. Coming from Athens on the highway, turn left for Patra and Amfissa at the Thermopyles junction. After several uphill turns, turn right for Pavliani and Skamnos. The road splits at the village of Oiti, where there is a small sign for Pavliani. Turn left and continue for 20 minutes on the winding road through the forest. You can also take the train to Bralos (15 km from Pavliani). From Patra, go via the Rio-Antirio bridge, Nafpaktos, Itea, Amfissa and Bralos.
Where to stay
Traditional guesthouse Petrino has 10 double comfortable rooms (tel 22310.83111/189); Katerina’s guesthouse has seven pleasantly decorated rooms and good service (tel 22310.83009); Vista Resort is on the way to Kaloskopi (tel 22310.82961-2); Orivatiko Katafygio, inside the national park, is run by the Lamia Mountaineering Club (tel 22310.26786); Papadimitriou, budget rooms in Ano Pavliani (tel 22310.83019).
Where to eat
Pavliani has several tavernas offering&?nbsp; the area’s famous roasted meat dishes, pies and boiled goat. Anastasiou, in Kato Pavliani, is a good, established example; Paradosiako Kafenio is a traditional cafe, grocery and taverna in Ano Pavliani, offering homemade dishes and excellent sweets. One speciality is omelette with sausage and kefalotyri cheese; Katerina’s guesthouse also has excellent food, including rooster in wine and wild boar; Litsa, in Ano Pavliani, has fine homemade food, wine and tsipouro.
What to see
Many of the mountain roads are rough and SUVs are advisable; ascend to the wonderful Livadies plateau -- with small lakes -- which extends to three summits above 2,000 meters and is snow-covered in winter. A road heading west from the roadside shelter with the icons and the water springs in Livadies toward Neohori leads to the twin springs of Kalogeros; another interesting route will bring you to Koumaritsi, Dyo Vouna and Gorgopotamos; see the 19th-century Aghios Athanasios Church.
Flora & fauna
The flora of Mt Oiti includes endemic species such as veronica, red lilies, orchids, wild pansies, irises and narcissuses; there are also areas of thick Cephalonian fir and pine, juniper and arbutus trees. The fauna includes wild boar, foxes, squirrels, weasels and, more rarely, wolves. Any activity likely to disturb the ecosystem is prohibited inside the National Park. Τhe Oiti Natural History Museum, housed in the Agathon Monastery and best accessed from Ypati, hosts stuffed animals and preserved plants from the area.
info: ekathimerini.gr Pavliani is a beautiful village crowned by fir forest on Mount Oiti -- one of the country’s most accessible mountains, just two hours by car northwest of Athens. At an altitude of about 1,050 meters, it marks the entrance to Oiti National Park. Pavliani’s hospitable inhabitants, mainly occupied with farming and logging, have built their houses of wood and stone, with steep roofs to withstand the weight of snow in winter. Logs are piled on the side of streets and the smooth mountain slopes in the wider area are ideal for cross-country skiing. In spring, the blooming apple orchards that adorn the lower approaches to the village are a sight to behold.
The area has been known since antiquity. The remains of the 3rd-century BC Doric temple dedicated to mythical hero Hercules can be found at Pyra (altitude 1,800 m) -- this is the location where Hercules supposedly made a pyre to rid himself of the poisoned shirt of Nessus, which his wife Deianira was tricked into giving him. Taking pity on him, Zeus made him a demigod.
The entrance to Pavliani, which is divided into “lower” (Kato) and “upper” (Ano) districts, is marked with a monument to those who fell during a fierce battle with the Germans in June 1943.
A first-time visitor starting on the path connecting the two communities may be caught unprepared by the wonder that follows. At the beginning there is a spot where locals used to wash their clothes and which has now been restored. After a few minutes’ walk you come to the stunning natural park where the Asopos River begins, with magnificent old trees and a large recreation area constructed with a great deal of imagination and inspiration. On the left is the forest, on the right the river. For the daring visitor, tree logs connect the two banks of the river (it may be advisable to leave valuables behind). Alternatively, a seat rolling along two ropes is also available. There are sports installations, picnic benches, swings and barbecue areas -- it is a truly wonderful spot not to be missed.
Ano Pavliani has evident signs of rapid growth in recent years, thanks to the Habitat Agenda, an EU-funded pilot program that provides for sustainable development projects. If the walk through the park has not whetted your appetite enough to sample the fare in one of the several tavernas, you can continue on any of a variety of walking routes for which Pavliani is an ideal base. One of the best is the hike to Katavothra cave -- a sinkhole into which the waters disappear with an eerie roar only to reappear at the waterfalls in the steep Gorgopotamos river gorge much further away. From here, the views to the neighboring mountains of Vardousia to the west and Giona to the south are superb.
The walks to Pyra and to Katavothra from Ano Pavliani both take about two hours but care is called for as signposting is poor. Other routes lead to the summits of Kouvellos and Greveno as well as to the alpine refuge in the National Park.
Those of frailer form will enjoy the walks to the meadows above the village, which become spectacularly colorful in spring -- and to the Chapel of Profitis Ilias -- about half an hour away and offering fine views.
How to get there
Pavliani is 240 kilometers from Athens and 340 from Thessaloniki. Coming from Athens on the highway, turn left for Patra and Amfissa at the Thermopyles junction. After several uphill turns, turn right for Pavliani and Skamnos. The road splits at the village of Oiti, where there is a small sign for Pavliani. Turn left and continue for 20 minutes on the winding road through the forest. You can also take the train to Bralos (15 km from Pavliani). From Patra, go via the Rio-Antirio bridge, Nafpaktos, Itea, Amfissa and Bralos.
What to see
Many of the mountain roads are rough and SUVs are advisable; ascend to the wonderful Livadies plateau -- with small lakes -- which extends to three summits above 2,000 meters and is snow-covered in winter. A road heading west from the roadside shelter with the icons and the water springs in Livadies toward Neohori leads to the twin springs of Kalogeros; another interesting route will bring you to Koumaritsi, Dyo Vouna and Gorgopotamos; see the 19th-century Aghios Athanasios Church.
Flora & fauna
The flora of Mt Oiti includes endemic species such as veronica, red lilies, orchids, wild pansies, irises and narcissuses; there are also areas of thick Cephalonian fir and pine, juniper and arbutus trees. The fauna includes wild boar, foxes, squirrels, weasels and, more rarely, wolves. Any activity likely to disturb the ecosystem is prohibited inside the National Park. Τhe Oiti Natural History Museum, housed in the Agathon Monastery and best accessed from Ypati, hosts stuffed animals and preserved plants from the area.
info: ekathimerini.gr By Haris Argyropoulos