Hidden away in a thick beech forest behind a plateau on Mount Vitsi in Florina, northwestern Greece, Nymfaio, with its stone-paved alleyways and superb mansions, seems like a village right out of a fairy tale still guarding its secrets well.
Book a hotel room in Athens Greece www.economyhotel.gr
check on line availability - prices and make a reservation https://economyhotel.cosmores.com
check on line availability - prices and make a reservation https://economyhotel.cosmores.com
Despite its inconspicuous position, reached via a winding road ascending up to 1,350 meters, Nymfaio is one of the country’s most popular destinations in the winter season, when its unique beauty is set in snow.
The history of the village began in 1386, when it was founded by Vlach speakers (the Latin-based language believed to go back to Roman settlers). Its original name was Niveasta, subsequently modified into Neveska and finally Nymfaio in 1929.
Its inhabitants’ trading acumen led them to distant lands and large fortunes and enabled them to transform Nymfaio into an enviable regional hub, especially between the 17th and 19th centuries. Locals specialized in tobacco and cotton and later excelled as silversmiths, selling jewelry in Europe and Russia. In the 1900s, Nymfaio became a center of the Greek struggle for the liberation of Macedonia.
But the Greek Civil War in the late 1940s spelled the town’s demise; it became largely depopulated in subsequent decades, with most houses falling into decay. In the mid-1990s, however, a process of regeneration began: More than 100 houses have since been restored to their former glory -- many still featuring fine imported furniture, frescoes and ornate ceilings, which attest to a golden era. Alleyways were repaired and the traditional guesthouses contributed to rapid tourist growth.
Today, Nymfaio is one of Greece’s most important listed settlements.
Its class and charm become apparent as soon as you leave the car at the edge of the village and begin strolling around. Going under the small bridge connecting two stone-built mansions, you’ll feel like you’re stepping centuries back in time. Attractive buildings line the main street leading to the square, a short distance from Nikios School, an imposing eclectic mansion with neo-Byzantine elements coexisting alongside a Baroque clock tower. It hosts exhibitions, has a library and is used as a conference center by the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki.
Besides the the village itself, exploring the impressive surrounding countryside is equally delightful. Traversing Mt Vitsi’s Black Forest is an exciting experience. Follow Nymfaio’s circular road, turning left on the narrow road where signposts direct you to Limni. About 2 kilometers down this wonderful route, you’ll come to a dirt road leading to the heart of the forest and the abandoned settlement of Perikopi. The dirt road disappears into an amazing, seemingly impenetrable forest of beech, ferns and shrubs, giving the forest its name. A few kilometers further is a plateau, at an elevation of 1,500 meters, with views of the villages of Sklithro and Limnohori as well as lakes Zazari and Himaditida, reached via the village of Aetos. Continuing, you’ll enter an impressive forest of enormous fir trees. At the first crossroad, it is worth following the road to Asprogia, alongside alpine meadows with broad views of Mt Vitsi.
Asprogia, a small village of some 200 people, built on a lush slope, is worth a quick visit to admire its well-kept houses and alleyways and sit at a traditional cafe.
One of the highlights of the area is the Arcturos center for the protection of the brown bear, hosting 13 members of the species that cannot survive in the wild.
How to get there
On the Athens to Thessaloniki highway, turn at the Egnatia junction toward Veria. Before you enter town, follow the road to Kozani and then turn for Florina. At the Amyntaio junction turn toward Kastoria and then for Nymfaio at the village of Aetos. It is 540 km from Athens and 160 km from Thessaloniki. Intercity buses depart to Florina from Athens daily, at 8.30 a.m. and 8.30 p.m. (100 Kifissou, tel 210.513.0247). There are also five intercity bus and train connections from Thessaloniki (Hellenic Railways, tel 1110).
What to see
The Arcturos brown bear protection center (tel 41500, www.arcturos.gr), closed January 7 to end-March due to the hibernation period; the Nikios School, a village landmark; the Boutari, Missios, Mertzos, Papadopoulos and Sossidaion mansions; the historic Tsirlis mansion, center of the Macedonian Struggle; the 14th-century Church of Aghios Nikolaos; the village cemetery, divided according to neighborhood, has several ornate tombs; and a museum housing equipment used by local jewelers, rare old furniture and art.
What to do & buy
Trekking, horse riding, canoeing, mountain biking and climbing are organized by Artemis (tel 41200); excursions on horseback in the forest (tel 31132); skiing at the Pisoderi Viglas center (tel 23850.45800), on the main road to Florina and the Prespes Lakes; if you have a jeep, follow the forest roads to Drosopigi or Florina; the Women’s Cooperative Shop sells jams, pasta, sweet red pepper puree, books, herbs and handicrafts (tel 31117); Materka shop has appetizers, wool caps, gloves and boot accessories for the ice.
info: ekathimerini.gr By Haris Argyropoulos
