Symi, one of the smaller Dodecanese islands and a stone’s throw away from the Turkish coast, is an enchanting place. Its rocky outline of rough gray limestone emerges almost vertically from the emerald Aegean waters. As the boat approaches the narrow fjord-like harbor, the colorful and elegant neoclassical houses gracefully resting on the thyme-scented, inhospitable terrain immediately catch the eye.
And what a pleasure to the eye these houses are. Usually two-storied, with pediments and balconies in front and red-tiled roofs, they combine ochre, salmon pink, indigo, brown, white and yellow in various shades to create a captivating image -- all those who initially came on holiday and decided to settle will attest. These houses continue to be built as they were 200 years ago.
This impressive architectural identity owes much to the island’s rich maritime tradition, which brought prosperity to the locals.
Homer sang Symians’ shipbuilding skills, for which they were famous and which helped them create a large commercial and sponge-fishing fleet in the Middle Ages.
The Ottomans, who conquered the island in 1512, appointed them as official messengers to their navy and granted them tax exemptions and preferential status as purveyors of sponges to the Sultan’s court.
By the middle of the 19th century, Symi had more than 20,000 inhabitants as well as dozens of large vessels anchored in its harbor.
In 1912, the Dodecanese islands were occupied by Italy. During World War II, Symi was heavily bombed by the Germans and a large number of fine buildings was destroyed -- some remain so to this day -- while postwar poverty also forced a large number of people to emigrate.
Tourist development has since created new opportunities and vocations and the island can now compete on equal ground with other Aegean top resorts -- the only difference being that it is a much calmer place.
It has a dry climate and hospitable people, who make sure they keep their houses as elegant as ever. Symi is a magical place, where life never seems to be hurried.
The town comprises two parts, the port-side hub of Gialos and the upper-side Horio. Before a road was constructed, the only connection between the two was Kali Strata -- an ascent of about 400 wide stone steps alongside which sat the best mansions and shops.
Gialos has a number of imposing, Italian-built public buildings, attractive waterside cafes and shops around the two main squares, Kampos and Skala.
There are two museums, a number of listed buildings and a landmark, 1881-built clock tower that dominates the entrance to the port.
The view from Horio and the superb mansions will compensate you for deciding to make the trek up the 400 steps.
There is a fort (Kastro) built on top of an ancient citadel, with many medieval buildings and several churches, most prominently the Panaghia tou Kastrou, with its impressive iconography.
The most important monument elsewhere on the island is the Monastery of Archangel Michael Panormitis.&?nbsp;
Pedi is a picturesque settlement along a narrow bay east of Gialos, with countless caiques inside and outside the water and a working traditional boat-building workshop.
Emporios, or Nimborios, west of town, is ideal for strolls from Nos Beach, again, with those houses right on the water.
The tiny islet of Sesklia, off the southern tip, has a fine beach and two freshwater springs and is a favorite stopover for boats doing tours around the island.
Getting there & basic info
There is no boat link with Piraeus but with the appropriate combination of a flight to Rhodes and boat to Symi, you can arrive there in three hours. High-speed and conventional boats run frequently (tel 22410.70590/ 77760, www.anes.gr; 22410.37769, www.12ne.gr). Private boats can anchor at Gialos, Nimborios, Pedi, Panormitis and Aghios Emilianos (port authority: 71205). There is a bunker fuel station at Gialos. Area code: 22460. Health center: 71290. One drawback is that Symi prices are somewhat above average.
What to see
The Maritime Museum (72363) where photographs, ship models and maps&?nbsp; tell the story of Symi’s sponge-fishing and maritime tradition; the Archaeological Museum has exhibits from prehistoric to post-Byzantine times; the adjacent Folk History Museum, the superbly restored Hatziagapitos Mansion (71114) and the Kampsopoulos House, where the German surrender was signed; the 11 restored old grape presses in the Kourkounioti area, reached via a beautiful cypress-tree forest (www.patitiria.com); the Roukouniotis Monastery.
Beaches
Symi has plenty of attractive sandy beaches that can be reached by sea taxi or by boat from Gialos, which take you on day trips there. Nos is easily accessible on foot; Aghios Nikolaos, sandy beach with trees, is also accessible on foot from Pedi; Aghia Marina, opposite the namesake islet, is among the most picturesque locations; Ai-Giorgis Disalonas, below a 100-meter-high bluff where fir trees grow, is the most impressive; Nanou is a great beach with large pebbles and trees for shade; Diavates, with deep waters and sea caves, is for strong swimmers. |
|
