With a population of 2,100, Parga is a small town on mainland Greece’s northwestern coast -- yet its tumultuous history, rare natural beauty, crystal-clear seas, forests, picturesque two- and three-story traditional houses and particularly good climate make it a favorite destination among Greek travelers. It is on the site of ancient Toryni, as mentioned by 2nd-century BC astronomer Ptolemy, and the later-mentioned port of Elaea, which was submerged in a geological calamity.
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Parga is on the eastern side of a small peninsula with views of Paxoi and Antipaxoi islands and Cape Aktion to the south. The bay on which it sits is divided into several coves by islets and small promontories. The bigger ones are in front of the port town and to the west, with the mainland behind them extending into narrow valleys and low hills, rich in orchards and olive groves.
Valtos, the western cove, has a beautiful sandy beach and several hotels. The eastern side is adorned with a magnificent complex of coves and islets. Facing the town, like a half-submerged camel’s double hump, is Nisaki tis Panaghias, which protects the port from rough seas. Winters are mild and summers are cool, while plentiful fresh waters ensure lemon and orange orchards scent the surrounding area in springtime. Parga used to be famous for its choice citrus fruits, which were widely exported.
The town is the administrative and business hub in the broader area and a very popular tourist destination. It is also a beautiful listed settlement, which seems to have escaped the worst aspects of tourist development. The only objection one may raise concerns a sense of disproportion in the motley tourist shops and signs. But even if one goes as far as to describe the sight as a somewhat anarchic fete, it is probably the most tasteful you will find in the country.
Parga’s setting is dominated by an admirable medieval fort -- the largest in the district -- on a naturally defensive rock on the right side of town. It was initially built by the Normans and greatly improved by the Venetians. Outside the fort, eight towers added to the defenses, which were virtually impenetrable. The fort came under British rule in 1797, while in 1819 it was sold to Ali Pasha, the regional Ottoman strongman who had repeatedly tried to conquer it. He added further fortification and installed his harem and a Turkish bath at the top.
The castle is reached via the town’s narrow uphill streets. The arched gateway bears the Venetian winged lion of St Mark, the inscription “Antonio Bervass 1764” and Ali Pasha’s emblems. Once inside, visitors will see arched corridors, ammunition chambers, strong bastions with firing positions, barracks, a secret escape route to the sea, prisons, storerooms and two last lines of defense. The castle is impressively illuminated at night, while two central lower buildings have been restored and converted into exhibition areas and a cafe.
After visiting the fort, it is worth descending the paved way down to Valtos beach.
The Parga area has a large number of religious monuments, some of which are fortified -- perhaps a sign of historically turbulent times strengthening people’s religious sentiments. At Cape Keladio, at the end of Valtos beach, are the ruins of the 11th-century Vlachernon Monastery, whose bells, according to tradition, could be heard 12 miles away.
Getting there & basic info
Parga is 420 km from Athens via the Rio-Antirio bridge, Amfilochia and the underwater tunnel at Aktion. It is also 38 km from the port of Igoumenitsa to the north, 70 km from the airport at Aktion and 170 km from Ioannina. Olympic Airlines (210.966.6666) flies to Aktion two to three times weekly. The Egnatia Highway has greatly reduced traveling time from Thessaloniki via Igoumenitsa. In the summer months, Parga is connected by ferry with Corfu, Paxoi and Antipaxoi islands. Useful phone numbers: area code: 26840, police: 31222, health center: 31233.
What to see & do
Besides the castle, the other indisputable highlight in the area is the Necromanteion (or Oracle of the Dead) of Ephyra (22 kilometers southeast of Parga), from where Homer said Odysseus visited Hades. Visit the mouth of the Acheron River 4 km to the west, at the fine Ammoudia beach -- good for camper vans -- and take a short boat trip along the lush banks and the wetland. See the superb mountain gorge further upriver -- good for rafting. The area is excellent for hiking (info center at Ammoudia: tel 41566); also see the Zalogo monument at Kamarina.
Beaches
The coast east and west of Parga is virtually a string of long superb beaches. Three kilometers eastward, beyond Valtos, is Lichnos (which features two small sea caves) -- both with sea sport activities. Six kilometers away is Ai-Yiannakis, a picturesque little beach with cool waters. Six kilometers from town in the opposite direction is postcard-pretty Sarakiniko, near the village of Aghia, with trees right down to the water. Ιn town, Krioneri faces Nisaki tis Panaghias, and to the east is Piso Krioneri, a small beach which is surrounded by steep rocks.
info: By Haris Argyropoulos ekathimerini.gr
