Besides its endless beaches, Ios, 108 nautical miles from Piraeus in the southern Cyclades, has come to be best known for its nightlife and bars.
It is much less famed as the presumed birthplace of Homer’s mother and his ultimate resting place. What some consider to be Homer’s tomb is near the northeastern tip of the island, at the site of the ancient town of Plakatos.
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The first hippies arrived here in 1969 after being evicted from Matala on Crete and settled on Mylopotas beach. Ios still attracts proportionately more young people than any other island but has retained its traditional character, while the range of visitors extends from backpackers to yachters.
Ios is about 100 square kilometers, and of its 82 kilometers of coastline, an estimated 36 km comprises sandy beaches.
Hora, the main town, where nightlife is at its liveliest, may be packed with bars but the white Cycladic architecture dominates and you are sure to find tranquil corners even in high season. In fact, Ios is a strikingly serene island despite the buzz, found mainly in three places, the port of Yialos, Hora and Mylopotas, the main beach.
Hora is 10 minutes by car from Yialos and, on the way, part of the ancient city of Ios’s wall can be seen. Alternatively, take the 20-minute walk up the stepped path.
Yialos offers the typical island port stroll, past restaurants and shops in a pedestrianized stretch. The port is always packed with boats of all types.
A good walk is up the stepped path to Hora and lasts about 20 minutes. If you go by car, you have to park it at the edge of the village. Visit the superb archaeological museum in the Town Hall, housing the findings of systematic excavations which began in 1980.
The narrow alleyways wind up past small chapels and whitewashed houses with thick walls, restaurants, bars and shops.
There are Irish pubs, jazz bars, rock clubs, slammer bars, discos and you may even find a few that play Greek music.
Mylopotas, 20 minutes from Hora, is a long fine beach and has space for everyone but can be too windy. There is a wide range of water sports available, including scuba diving, windsurfing and jet ski riding. Koumbara, closer to the port, is quieter and more sheltered. Both, however, are beautiful sandy beaches with clear waters.
Manganari beach, 22 km from Yialos on the southern end of the island, is well worth an hour’s drive but can also be reached by small boat or bus. It is actually a number of bays separated by sandy promontories. Part of Luc Besson’s “Big Blue” was filmed here and it is a favorite place of Prime Minister Costas Karamanlis. You will find a number of small hotels, rented rooms and tavernas.
The other best-known beaches with some accommodation and catering facilities are Kalamos, Plakes, Aghia Theodoti and Psathi. Apart from these there are numerous others, with varying degrees of accessibility. The Avlaki tou Papa can be reached with difficulty on foot or by boat and you can put up your tent for the night without anyone objecting.
Basic info
It takes just under eight hours to Ios by ferry from Piraeus and about half that with the high-speed boat from Rafina. Ios also has regular connections with the other Cyclades islands and with Iraklion, Crete. Blue Star Ferries, tel 210.891.9800, www.bluestarferries.gr; Hellenic Seaways, tel 210.419.9000, www.dolphins.gr. Telephone area code: 22860. Port authority, 91264. On the island, bus services are very frequent and the roads satisfactory. You can rent cars and mopeds (Jacob’s, 91047/92097). Police, 91222; health center, 91227; pharmacy, 91562. More info: www.ios.gr, www.ios-greece.com.
Sights, events & activities
The ruins of the 14th-century castle, the windmills, the Hellenistic-period tower of Psathopyrgos in Plakoto and Homer’s tomb; the chapel of Panaghia Gremiotissa for superb views of nearby Sikinos and the best sunset; the open-air theater at Tsoukalaria, named after Nobel laureate poet Odysseas Elytis who loved the spot, hosts cultural events. Museums: Archaeological, the Jean-Marie Drot Modern Art Museum in Kolitsani and the Folk Art Museum in Hora.
info: By Haris Argyropoulos ekathimerini.gr
