The small island of Aegina, 16 nautical miles from the port of Piraeus in the center of the Saronic Gulf, has been repeatedly eclipsed by Athens in history. The first time was in the 5th century BC, when the islanders antagonized the local superpower by siding with their fellow Dorians, the Spartans, and were ultimately exiled and replaced by colonists.
In the late 1820s, Aegina briefly served as the first capital of partly liberated Greece but Athens eventually prevailed once more.
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Today, this island of 13,000 people is again largely a colony of the capital, a virtual outlying suburb hosting many artists and other freelancers who commute with varying degrees of regularity, as well as a populous foreign community. It is also the nearest island option for weekenders who come here to escape the city, drink ouzo, eat seafood and watch the fishing boats. All this contributes to a vibrant cultural life and nightlife virtually throughout the year.
In the buzzing port, lined with cafes and restaurants, ferries, sailboats, cruise ships and caiques sail in and out all the time, depositing people, cars and goods. Horse-drawn buggies compound the bustle.
&?nbsp;A stroll along the narrow streets and alleys further behind the port area reveals quieter neighborhoods with plenty of historic buildings, restored neoclassical houses, run-down mansions and shady, flower-strewn old courtyards.
The Venetian-style Tower of Markellos, a few minutes from the port, is among the best sights. A few streets away is the Governor’s House, which was home to the country’s first seat of government and mint in the 1820s (Aegina is also considered to have minted the first coins in Europe in the 7th century BC, the silver “turtle” -- a reflection of the wealth amassed through its extensive commercial ties with Egypt and Phoenicia).
There is no mistaking that the economy of Aegina, like most other Greek islands, is largely dependent on tourism. But the town bustle aside, it offers a host of opportunities for leisure, sightseeing and discovery. The most developed resort is Aghia Marina, 13 kilometers from town on the northeastern coast, which also has the best -- but possibly too popular -- sandy beach in the summer. Portes to the south is quieter. On the western side, there are good beaches in Marathonas, Aeginitissa, Perdika, Klima, Mourioti and Sarpa. On the northern side, the options are fewer. Tourlos (500 meters from the small port of Vagia) is rather rocky but with a sandy seabed and emerald waters.
Kolona, Plakakia, Leonti and Kavouropetra are closer to the town.
Aegina is also excellent for hiking. Its size (82 square kilometers) allows several routes of manageable distance (10-12 km). The rough landscape, the presence of vegetation and the scattered settlements make hiking on Aegina a delightful experience. One of the easiest and shortest walking routes is from Aghia Marina to the ancient temple of Aphaia, where you have fine views of the mainland. One of the longest but also most rewarding routes, which takes in paths in the southern and eastern parts of the island, is from the fishing port of Perdika in the west to Aghia Marina through the village of Sfentouri. A map and supplies are necessary.
The second most important place of interest after the Temple of Aphaia are the ruins of Palaiohora, east of the town and a short distance from the church of Aghios Nektarios. This area was the capital of the island from the 9th till the 18th century, when villages were located high inland to be safe from pirates. The only buildings that remain standing are 33 small churches in varying degrees of decay but it is an amazing place and has some lovely panoramic views.
The island is famous for its pistachios, which are marketed under a protected designation of origin. They are sold everywhere and the local cooperative has a stall by the port. Some traditional pottery workshops remain near Mesagros.
Aegina hosts the Hellenic Wildlife Rehabilitation Center (22970.28367, www.ekpazp.gr), which receives and treats about 3,500 injured animals and birds annually.
The center is outside the main town and a car or taxi may be necessary to get there. Entrance is free but donations are welcome.
A water park for kids can be found 1.5 kilometers south of the town.
Getting there & about
In summer, there are at least 10 ferry connections from Piraeus (every hour-and-a-half) and fewer and less convenient services to Aghia Marina and Souvala. There are also frequent sailings by Flying Dolphins (40 minutes). Buses, leaving from outside the port, run frequently to Aghia Marina via Palaiohora and the Temple of Aphaia. Other buses go to Perdika and Souvala. There are several car and moped rental places in the port.
Events & what to see
The annual classical music festival takes place on Avra Beach, below the Kolona site from August 8 to 30. Also see the archaeological sites and museums at Aphaia and Kolona, the views from the top of Mt Hellanion, with some archaeological remains, the historic Orphanage building, the Markellos Tower, the Governor’s House, the Town Hall and the very interesting museum of artist Christos Kapralos.
info: By Haris Argyropoulos ekathimerini.gr
