Mount Mainalo occupies a large part of the central Peloponnesian district of Arcadia, a verdant area of about 1,500 square kilometers with a richly varied landscape, from the Tripoli plateau to the Lousios River and the artificial Lake Ladonas.
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It is a blessed mountain, not so much in terms of height (Ostrakina, its highest summit, is just under 2,000 meters) but in terms of vegetation and water. Its fir forest, one of the country’s densest and largest, covers 65 percent of the alpine zone, while its water table is the most bountiful in the region. Mt Mainalo is on the European Natura 2000 list of protected areas.According to mythology, it was the home of the god Pan -- protector of shepherds and their flocks -- which reflected its ancient animal farming tradition.
Beside inspiration for folk tales, Mainalo also prompted Virgil to assert that Arcadia was the home of pastoral simplicity and happiness, and inspired the 17th-century French painter Nicolas Poussin for his two paintings titled “Et in Arcadia ego.”
Arcadia was invaded by Slavs around the 7th century, which explains why so many places have names of Slavic origin, such as Stemnitsa and Zygovisti. Thanks to its relatively short distance from Athens (about two hours and 30 minutes) and its picturesque villages, it is an ideal place for short escapes, with tourist infrastructure that has grown significantly in recent years.
A circular, counterclockwise tour of Mt Mainalo can start from the Nestani junction, a few kilometers after exiting the Artemisio Tunnel, and take in Kapsia, Levidi, Vytina, Dimitsana, Stemnitsa and Tripoli -- a total of 110 kilometers (altitude and distance from the city of Tripoli are listed in parentheses).
Kapsia (700 m, 8 km): At the foot of the mountain, with about 500 people. The nearby cave is well worth visiting.
Levidi (850 m, 25 km): A head village with a population of 700. One of the two clocks on the bell tower of the Church of Taxiarchis, on the hilltop, shows the time when the Germans blew it up during World War II to prevent the locals from alerting the guerrillas with the bells.
Vytina (1,033 m, 44 km): Known for its excellent climate and a cool summer resort. Proximity to the Mainalo skiing center (15 km) is an additional plus. Magouliana, 12 km from Vytina, is the village with the highest altitude in the Peloponnese (1,367 m), with only 80 inhabitants, medieval ruins and a church with a beautiful iconostasis.
Dimitsana (850 m, 60 km): Built at the top of a gorge of the Lousios River, it has a superb view of the plain of Megalopoli and Mt Taygetos to the south. Its medieval layout, cobbled alleyways and stone-built houses and mansions are worth exploring. Four kilometers away is Zatouna (a name with Slavic roots, meaning “the village beyond the river”), which boasts the best views in the area, from the Church of Profitis Ilias.
Stemnitsa (1,050 m, 75 km): One of the Peloponnese’s most attractive traditional settlements. From Ottoman times until the early 20th century, it flourished as a silver and goldsmithing center and trading post, while its bell makers were among the best in Greece. It also features excellent examples of traditional architecture with wood and stone and its highlights include a folk history museum and the small historic Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi.
Eight kilometers from Stemnitsa is Elliniko, near the the Lousios River gorge and a base for exploring the area. A further six kilometers away is ancient Gortyna, the starting point of restored trails in the gorge.
Transport & basic info
A car is a must for a tour of the area, otherwise one has to rely on taxis and local buses, which can be infrequent. From the Corinth-Tripoli highway, take a right toward Levidi and Vytina at the Nestani junction. Vytina is 202 kilometers from Athens and the road is very good for the most part. Tripoli can be reached from Athens by bus (tel 210.513.2834, on average one per hour) and train (tel 1110, journeys take much longer). Local bus station: tel 2710.222.560; tourist info: tel 2710.222.243; police: tel 2710.222.519.
Where to eat & what to buy
You are unlikely to find substandard cuisine in this part of the Peloponnese -- it ranges from the decent to the superb. In Vytina, try Klimataria and Arhontiko tis Athinas for classic Greek and grilled dishes; in Dimitsana, Tholos; in Magouliana, non-vegetarians go to Iosif’s, who, as a stock breeder/ butcher/restaurateur, will make you a meat enthusiast; buy chestnuts and walnuts; in Vytina you will find good honey, feta, trahana, hylopittes; in Stemnitsa, don’t miss the diples (fried pastries).
What to see
The excellent Hydromotion Museum and the old gun powder mills near Dimitsana; the Ladonas River dam and the artificial lake good for amateur angling; the pretty settlements of Lagadia, Chrysovitsi and Karytaina (its medieval fort used to be known as the Greek Toledo); the historic Filosofou Monastery, 8 km from Dimitsana, an old religious education center; the 12th-century Aghios Ioannis Prodromos Monastery between Dimitsana and Stemnitsa, built on the side of a vertical bluff.
Activities
Besides offering skiing, snowboarding and snowmobile, Mainalon Ski Center (tel 6979.911.506, 210.578.1880), 30 kilometers from Tripoli, has a skiing school (6979.911.501) for all ages. There are four lifts and eight trails, ranging from 100-800 meters. Trekking Hellas (6974.459.753, 27910.25978) offers river sports in the Lousios River as well as archery and trekking programs in the area in a number of combinations.
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