The road through the Evinos River valley northwest of Nafpaktos in western Greece brings you to Thermo, a small town on a lush plateau that flourished as a trading and administrative center before World War II.
Ancient Thermos, about 1.5 kilometers away, was one of the most important regional political centers during antiquity, seat of the Aetolian League, which was twice razed by the Macedonians, in 218 and 206 BC.
Book a hotel room in Athens Greece www.economyhotel.gr
check on line availability - prices and make a reservation https://economyhotel.cosmores.com
check on line availability - prices and make a reservation https://economyhotel.cosmores.com
The modern town, Thermo, 3 km from Trichonida, Greece’s largest lake, was hit particularly hard by the abandonment of the surrounding mountain villages during the 1946-49 civil war, but it remains a hub in the area, although farming is on the decline. Any attempts to develop the lake for tourism purposes must take into account environmental concerns. Consequently fishermen complain that their catch goes unsold, saying that the people have left and the villages are emptying.
Trichonida, with an area of 97 square kilometers, was once referred to as the “Sea of Aetolia” in old property contracts. In the morning mist, the summits of Arakynthos and Panaitoliko figure in the hazy background. In the old days, about 300 fishermen’s families lived off the lake. Now they are down to just four or five. It’s not the fish stocks that have dwindled but the buyers. The lake is home to 25 species of fish, 16 of which are edible and 11 are indigenous to Greece. The tastiest is the tiny sand smelt -- normally a saltwater fish -- which has adapted to the lake and even graces the tables of Athenian tavernas.
Kato Myrtia is the only lakeside area with rudimentary development: a handful of tavernas and a hotel or two. The village is surrounded by vast citrus orchards. Myrtia’s blood oranges are a unique variety in Greece. This is also the location of Loutra, once a popular spa, though today the dilapidated cabins right next to the pretty beach host only rusty bathtubs.
Following the lakeside road anticlockwise, you come to some larger but rather nondescript villages. Uphill from Paravola, there is a fine view of the lake from the pine-clad castle of Voukatio: The towers are Byzantine but the walls date to the 4th century BC. The orchards have now given way to olive groves, which pose an indirect environmental hazard: There are as many as 35 olive oil presses around Trichonida, the waste from which flows untreated into the lake. Still, Trichonida is relatively clean, renewed by subterranean waters as well as numerous brooks on the surrounding mountains. Surplus waters are channeled into Lysimachia, a neighboring lake to the west, and then to the Acheloos River. Both lakes have been included in the Natura 2000 network thanks to their rich flora and fauna.
After crossing the channel, head in an easterly direction south of Trichonida. Several villages are nestled in the foothills of Arakynthos, a mountain covered with magnificent oak forests but better known for its chestnuts. Zevgaraki, Papadates, Mataraga and Grammatiko are surrounded by olive groves and green fields -- most of which remain uncultivated following the gradual demise in the 1990s of tobacco growing for which the area was famous. Gavalou is the main village of the area, with a population of 1,500. Under a shelter lie remnants of their ancient predecessors -- a temple of Asclepius, the god of healing. The ancient city was Trichonio, home of prominent generals of the Aetolian League.
Further east, Sitaralona produces the tastiest olive oil in the region, while Petrohori has vineyards that produce the ancient Malagousia grape variety.
Getting there & useful info
Following the main road to Agrinio after you cross the Rio-Antirio bridge over the Gulf of Corinth, turn right for Panaitolio and you will come to the western shore of the lake. However, this is the longest and busiest route, even though it may be the fastest. It is probably better to head east for Nafpaktos after the bridge and ascend the mountains from there. The road is winding but quieter, more scenic and shorter. From Antirio to Thermo it is 94 km via Agrinio and 60 km via Nafpaktos. The phone number for the local health center is 26440.22248.
Where to eat
Althaea: the restaurant of the guesthouse with the same name is also one of the best in the area, with local wines and excellent service; classic Greek dishes, freshly prepared French fries, wild boar, authentic village pies and sausages. Bikas, in Kato Myrtia: a taverna with a fireplace and tables at the water’s edge (weather permitting); fish from the lake are the speciality. Dallas, in Kato Myrtia: under the aforementioned guesthouse -- the only taverna in the village open on weekdays. Xylino, in Varia, on the lake: tables outside, large indoor area, open daily.
Activities
Take a boat tour of the lake to enjoy some birdwatching, with over 200 species to see. Test your paragliding skills over Lake Trichonida and the surrounding mountains -- or with an instructor if you are not experienced (info: Ioakim Skondras, 6973.778.973, Panagiotis Savelonas, 6977.295.313). Trek through some beautiful valleys and in the surrounding mountains, with perhaps a stop for a refreshing sip of cool clear water at one of the many springs along the way. The watersports center at Mataraga and the beach at Kapsorachi have boat ramps.
What to see
Ancient Thermos: a very important archaeological site, with impressive stoas, monuments and streets sprawling over a wide area -- the museum houses a number of exquisitely beautiful ancient water spouts; the Trichonida Environment Center at Amparia (26410.51203, kepetri@otenet.gr) and its aquarium; the sunset from Vlocho, near Kainourgio, with an ancient acropolis and a monastery 700 m above the lake; the Loutra-Sitaralona dirt road is by far the best lakeside stretch; the Myrtia monastery has impressive 15th- and 16th-century wall paintings.
info: By Haris Argyropoulos kathimerini.gr
