There are perhaps few places in Greece that equally enchant the nature lover, the explorer, the hiker, the student of antiquities and religious monuments as well as the photographer. The Prespes lake valley -- a national park in the country’s northwestern corner, bordering Albania and the FYROM -- probably beats them all.
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From Pervali, the main lowland road pass to the closed basin extending over some 300 square kilometers, the view is breathtaking. The mountain range of Varnountas, with about 20 peaks at over 2,000 meters, rises over the horizon in the east. To the south lie the oak-and-beech forested slopes of Mt Triklario. And to the north, over the surface of Megali Prespa (Big Prespa), are the hazy outlines of the mountains of FYROM and Albania, over 2,500 meters high and snow-capped most of the year.
The expanse of the two lakes, Mikri Prespa (Small Prespa) and Megali Prespa, which are separated by a narrow strip of land at an elevation of 850 meters, covers most of this huge basin. Mikri Prespa has a total area of 48 square kilometers and forms the core of the national park, while a small part is in Albania. It is included in the list of 11 Greek wetlands protected under the Ramsar Convention. The few small settlements on its shores, including the small isle of Aghios Achillios, which hosts cultural events during the summer, are mostly occupied by farmers and fishermen. Megali Prespa has a total area of 280 sq.km., of which only 40 sq.km. are in Greece.
The lakes and the diversity of landscape, altitudes, microclimates and rock, have created an environmental paradise. The local flora is composed of about 1,400 species, while the fauna includes 260 kinds of birds, 42 mammals, 32 reptiles and amphibians and 19 fish species, of which nine are endemic. In fact, Mikri Prespa hosts the world’s main reproduction site for the Dalmatian pelican, an endangered species.
The word “sights” is possibly too poor to describe the countless points of interest which the lakes offer the visitor. They can be classified in three categories: the natural environment, the settlements and villages, and the religious monuments.
The natural environment offers endless possibilities for touring and hiking. A short list would include the trails along European Walking Route E6 on Triklario and Varnountas mountains, the largely cobblestone path from Mikrolimni to Kranies, the ascent from Aghios Georgios to the summit of Mt Devas, the long route from the village of Psarades along the spectacular southern shore of Megali Prespa, the ascent to the summit of Kale hill with the breathtaking views and the trek along the ravine of Aghios Germanos with the birch trees. Other possibilities include tours of Mikri Prespa with boats from Aghios Achillios and Mikrolimni.
The best examples of traditional architecture are found in Lefkonas, Kallithea, Lemos, Aghios Germanos and Psarades, a listed settlement. In addition, the 26 religious monuments in the area include some excellent examples of Byzantine architecture and iconography. The most prominent are the basilica of Aghios Achillios (10th century), Aghios Germanos (11th century) and the rock paintings on the shores of Megali Prespa, reached via boat tours from Psarades.
The Prespes lake district, where award-winning director Theo Angelopoulos has shot scenes for several of his films, is a place of rare beauty which acquires distinct features in each season. In the fall, the abundance of deciduous trees creates a superb interplay of colors, from yellow and brown to deep red, making for unforgettable long walks through the forests -- a haven for photographers.
Winter here lives up to its name, as Mikri Prespa is often covered with ice and has an annual average of 17 days of snow. In fact, the lakes seem to owe their name to the word “prespyia,” Slavic for “avalanche.” However, the place loses none of its serenity and capacity for offering opportunities for adventure and indelible experiences. It is also the season for good company, as well as good food and spirits by the fireplace, a time that brings people closer and forges bonds between visitors and locals.
Getting there & about
Given the vast expanse of the Prespes valley, a car is the best option for touring. The area is reached via Kastoria from Athens (590 km) and via Florina from Thessaloniki (210 km). Alternatively, there are two intercity bus departures to Florina from Athens daily, at 8.30 a.m. and 8.30 p.m. (Athens bus station, 100 Kifissou, tel 210.513.0247). The trip lasts 8 hours and 30 minutes. There are also five intercity bus and train connections from Thessaloniki daily (Hellenic Railways, tel 2310.599.421).
What to see
The Byzantine basilica of Aghios Achillios. Nature, of course, puts on its own open-air exhibition all year long: the sunset from Mikrolimni; the beach in Koula, perfect for swimming; the cedar forest near Mt Devas and Psarades. Visit the information center of the Prespes Protection Society in Aghios Germanos (23850.51211, 51452) and the information center in Psarades.
info: By Haris Argyropoulos kathimerini.gr
