With an area of 96 square kilometers, it is the second largest of the Sporades group -- off the east coast of central Greece -- the waters of which have been designated as a national marine park. Skopelos was declared a “green and blue island” by the international organization Biopolitics in 1997.
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Apart from the greenery, the local architecture, with a strong influence from the nearby mainland area of Pilio, is also untypically Aegean. This is immediately evident in the main point of entry, Hora, built in an amphitheater shape around the port and designated as a traditional listed settlement. Steep, narrow whitewashed alleyways lead you among the two- and three-story houses with the slate and red-tile roofs, and courtyards with flower beds and bougainvilleas. As you look from the sea, the landmark chapel of Panagitsa, one of several locations where scenes of “Mamma Mia!” were filmed, is on the right of the port, from where you will access the old Venetian fort with fine views over the town. Skopelos has around 360 churches and chapels, of which Aghios Athanasios is at least 1,000 years old.
It also has more than a dozen beautiful beaches. Touring the island is easier on its western side, where the villages and beaches are linked by the main road network. Starting from Hora, on the eastern coast, head south, about 4 kilometers, to the bay of Stafylos, with a fine narrow beach and several sea caves. A small promontory to the east separates Stafylos from Velanio, another larger beach where nudism is permitted and where the Romans had built baths.
Continuing westward, you will come to the bay of Agnontas, 8 kilometers from Hora, with good fish tavernas, and several magnificent smaller beaches reached by boat. Further on are Limnonari, Panormos, Blo (which hosts sailing boats and yachts), Milia and Kastani (perhaps the best two and most popular beaches). Glossa, in the northwest, is the second-largest village and perhaps the oldest settlement on the island, believed to have been inhabited by ancient Cretans from Knossos. Perched on the forested slope above the small port of Loutraki, Glossa is as picturesque and worth exploring as Hora. It is certainly worth taking the 45-minute walk down the old country path to the port of Loutraki. Buy traditional sweets before you leave.
Just outside Glossa to the east, there begins a lush valley which takes you down to the eastern shore and the spectacular rock of Ai-Yianni, aka Kastri or “Meteoro of the Aegean.” After climbing the 104 steps to the chapel at the top, take a dip in the azure waters of one of the tiny nearby coves.
Those with an off-road vehicle will have the best of opportunities to explore the forest roads of the Delfi mountain, lush with pines, olive trees and orchards. But the island, with its intoxicating scent of pine trees and several fine beaches, lends itself to relaxing walks.
Getting there & about
By ferry and Flying Dolphin from Aghios Constantinos (four-and-a-half and two-and-a-half hours respectively) and from Volos (four and two hours respectively). There is also a high-speed connection from Thessaloniki (three hours). Skopelos has three ports, Hora, Loutraki and Agnontas (used when strong northerly winds do not permit docking at Hora). There are also public buses, which will take you to most beaches and villages, as well as car and moped hire outlets.
What to see & nightlife
In Hora: the fort, the Panagitsa chapel, the folk museum (check for cultural events), the photographic center; the sunset at Glossa; the monasteries of Evangelistria, Metamorphosi, Prodromos and Livadiotissa; Nemesis in Agnontas. Skopelos has nightlife for all tastes, including popular live Greek rebetika music; La Costa, for classic rock; Jazz Bar Platanos, under the old plane tree. “Mamma Mia!” film locations: Milia, Agnontas, Amarantos, Kastani.
info: By Haris Argyropoulos kathimerini.gr
