Artemis, the goddess of the hunt in Greek mythology, must have had good reason to adopt the small island of Leros as her own; this member of the Dodecanese group close to Turkey has a rich and interesting past, going back to the 4th millennium BC, owing mainly to its geographical position and geomorphology.
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Its magnificent, fjord-like coastline is endowed with deep sheltered ports, while its fertile and lush interior made it relatively self-sufficient. In antiquity, its Ionian neighbors and its protectors, and later the Romans, Byzantines and Venetians, all used it as a military and trading base.
In 1912, Leros passed from the hands of the Turks to the Italians, who set up a large naval base and the headquarters of their operations in the eastern Mediterranean. Ιn the 1930s, they also created a new city, Porto Lago, in what is now the present-day port of Lakki, a true museum of art deco architecture in Greece. Along with Sabaudia in Italy and the Weissenhof neighborhood in Stuttgart, these were entire towns planned according to the so-called International Style of the period. Unfortunately, after being incorporated into the Greek state in 1947, Leros’s importance waned and it was chosen as the location for two concentration camps by the military junta in 1967. However, the island retained its strong roots, sense of community and folk traditions. Today it has a permanent population of about 8,500.
Leros is an island that has yet to experience major development and as a result offers visitors a great opportunity for a quiet break.
Besides the secluded clean blue coves, excellent local food, romantic sunsets and dinners under the moonlight by the sea, Leros offers strong doses of history and culture. Apart from the architectural legacy in Lakki, the many sights include medieval castles, Byzantine churches and four well-organized museums which epitomize the island’s rich history and highlight its lively folk culture.
The Archaeological Museum in one of the neoclassical mansions in Aghia Marina tracks Leros’s close historical ties with Ionian Asia Minor. The Ecclesiastical Museum inside the medieval castle in Panteli is the island’s main landmark. It contains invaluable ecclesiastical objects, rare manuscripts, old icons and a library of Leros’s religious heritage. The Folk Museum, housed in Beleni Tower -- an imposing seaside villa in Alida -- contains costumes and objects of daily use from prior eras, a reconstructed doctor’s surgery from the early 20th century and an entire section containing the artistic creations of dissidents exiled by the military junta in the 1967-74 period.
Last is the War Museum, set up in a tunnel outside Lakki that was used during WWII, and which exhibits remnants of the the war, including some touching personal objects from soldiers and audiovisual material from the Battle of Leros -- the failed operation by British and Greek forces to occupy and retain the island after Italian capitulation.
Lakki is worth an evening stroll. Currently the area has taken on a new elegance, as the large buildings along the broad streets with little parks and statues are being refurbished. On the eastern shore, visit the impressive castle of Panteli, wander past the neoclassical houses in Aghia Marina and in Platanos, the capital, check out the controversial iconography by the junta’s political prisoners at the chapel of Aghia Koura in Partheni, home of the Artemis the Virgin, as well as the chapel of Aghios Isidoros on an idyllic lonely rock by the sea which is often used for weddings.
Leros is not famed for its beaches but the sheltered large bays and dozens of coves, all with crystal waters, offer the broadest of choices among secluded or organized spots. Many of the beaches have tavernas with fresh fish and seafood and excellent local cuisine.
Getting there & about
(Area phone code 22470, Port Authority 23256) There is one flight daily from Athens (one hour), three a week from Rhodes, via Kos, and another three a week via Astypalaia. Olympic Airlines: 22844. The airport is in Partheni, in the north. There is a daily ferry connection from Piraeus (11 hours), as well as with Kos, Kalymnos, Rhodes, Samos and Leipsoi. In summer, there are also hydrofoils and catamarans going almost daily to most of the nearby islands. The hub for Leros buses is in Platanos. There are plenty of car, motorbike and bicycle rental outlets.
info: Haris Argyropoulos ekathimerini.gr
