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Zakynthos or Zante -- also known as “fiore di Levante,” or flower of the Eastern Mediterranean -- is steeped in cultural and literary tradition, with a strong contribution to the forging of the modern Greek identity.
Zakynthos came under Venetian rule in the Middle Ages -- as did the other western Greek islands -- when it served as a center for Greeks fleeing Ottoman persecution. Adding to its liberal appeal, the grafting of Italian traditions and customs into the Greek consciousness had produced a distinct spirit which found strong expression in the arts and letters.
To be sure, the interaction was not untrammeled, as national consciousness remained undiminished. Repression produced the People’s Rebellion (1628-32) -- the first revolution in the history of modern Greece -- while the French conquest of 1797, followed by the abolition of the hated Libro d’Oro (nobility register), produced a characteristically democratic political consciousness which lasted well into the 20th century.
One of the island’s strongest surviving traditions are the polyphonic songs accompanied by the guitar or the mandolin, extoling love for women and the island and known as “kantades,” derived from the Italian tradition of bel canto. Another is the “Venetian wedding,” a folk re-enactment of 16th-century customs which forms part of the island’s annual Carnival.
But perhaps Zakynthos’s most symbolic contribution to Greece lies in that it was home to the country’s national poet, Dionysios Solomos, author of the 1826 “Hymn to Freedom,” the first two stanzas of which now comprise the Greek national anthem. Solomos, who first wrote in Italian, along with his Zakynthian contemporary, poet Andreas Kalvos, were among the pioneers in the promotion of the modern Greek demotic language. The Ionian Islands, of which Zakynthos is the third largest following Cephalonia and Corfu, were relinquished from British control and joined the rest of Greece in 1864.
Sadly, most of the historical buildings, monuments and artifacts mirroring the island’s cultural development were destroyed by the 1953 earthquakes. In Zakynthos town, the notable exceptions were a number of churches, including that of Aghios Dionysios -- the island’s revered patron saint -- a school and a few mansions. Subsequent building specifications involving both safety and aesthetics ensured the restoration of some of the island’s old architectural heritage and the center now has attractive spots lined with cafes and restaurants. The hilltop district of Bohali and the ruined Venetian castle offer fine panoramic views.
In the rural parts of the island, notably in the villages of Keri, Maherado, Lithakia and Kiliomeno, the Venetian influence is still evident. Certain parts, like Argasi and Laganas, in recent decades have developed into unsightly mass tourism resorts popular with beer louts, as half the island’s income is accounted for by budget package holidays.
But there are plenty of other good reasons for visiting Zakynthos. Along with the commercialized excesses, for instance, the island has also seen the growth of agritourism facilities, including organic farms. It has a rich agricultural tradition, including centuries-old, gnarled olive trees which support their own ecosystems. It is an island rich in rare and interesting invertebrates, amphibians, reptiles and mammals, and and comprises a stop-off point on the migratory routes of over 200 bird species.
Zakynthos is also host to over 800 species of flowering plants, including fritillaries and 50 types of orchid. It is also an island surrounded by marine life, including visiting dolphins, endangered Mediterranean monk seals and the largest loggerhead sea turtle breeding population in the Mediterranean. May to October is the best time to see the turtles, when they migrate into Laganas Bay to mate. There are some restrictions for swimmers so as not to scare off the animals.
The island’s geology is characterized by captivating limestone rock formations as well as sea caves and some stunning beach locations along the coast.
How to get there
Athens is 305 kilometers from Kyllini, the nearest port to Zakynthos; it is less than a four-hour drive via the road to Patras and the ferry crossing adds an hour and 15 minutes (26230.92211). There are daily ferry connections with Cephalonia in the summer. Intercity buses leave from 100 Kifissou St (tel 210.512.9432) six times a day. There are also connections from Patras (2610.274938) and Thessaloniki (2310.551.057). Olympic Airlines has daily 35-minute flights. Zakynthos has a good road network. Area phone code: 26950; airport: 28322; police: 22100.
What to see & activities
Visit the National Marine Park (29870) near Sekania. Navagio (“shipwreck”) is one of Greece’s most photographed beaches (top photo), accessible only by sea; the Blue Caves are also one of the most popular attractions on the northwest coast. Enjoy the superb sunset from the Keri lighthouse and see the Keri caves, also accessible only by boat, in the same area. The town has several interesting museums; try to make some time to visit the Byzantine, Solomos and Kalvos museums, the Romas family mansion and the Naval Museum, on the Stani hill above town.
info: ekaathimerini - By Haris Argyropoulos
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