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Ikos – the name Alonissos went by during antiquity, when it was famous for its wine -- boasts having resisted the wholesale commercialization of its marine environment, thus maintaining its biodiversity more or less intact.
Thanks to strict monitoring and a good working relationship between the National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades and local fishermen, the island’s coasts have remained a safe haven for the Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus) and an important reservoir of fish stocks.
But it’s not just the marine life that makes Alonissos a prominent ecotourism destination in the Aegean. With a wealth of flora, small coves, picturesque villages, well-signposted footpaths and roads that take the visitor to isolated beaches leading to crystal-clear waters, Alonissos is well suited for an “alternative” holiday and has, in fact, become known as something of a magnet for backpackers.
Architecture is not the strong point in the port of Patitiri (“wine press”) where most of the economic activity and nightlife are concentrated.
Up until 1950, half the island was covered by vineyards but grape phylloxera (a small aphid-like insect) destroyed most of them. Then came a 1965 earthquake which laid waste to a large part of Hora, or Palio Horio (“Old Village”) -- a 20-minute uphill walk from the port -- and the hub of the island was hastily transferred to Patitiri.
In the last decade or so, Hora has undergone a revival and is now Alonissos’s main attraction. The core area of the fortified medieval settlement, the steps carved out of the rock and the imposing stone-built dwellings transport the visitor back to a times when owners built dwellings in close proximity on the cliff edge to help them react faster in the event of a pirate raid. Many of their heirs have restored the properties and cleared the picturesque alleyways of rubble. The houses are often rented out, allowing visitors to admire their practical use of the small space, the natural coolness, traditional fireplaces and, of course, stunning views of the Aegean.
The second most attractive feature of Alonissos is its amazing geomorphology. Like the other Sporades, including the many small islets to the east with which it comprises the marine park, it is endowed with amazing rock formations, coves where pirates used to seek refuge, dozens of beaches, cliffs that drop vertically into the sea and lush ravines. Somehow, the area’s biodiversity seems well linked to the intricate coastline. A network of 14 signposted trails crisscrosses the island.
The easier routes (between 30 and 90 minutes), begin either from Hora or Patitiri and end on pebbled beaches after touring the surrounding hills. Mikros Mourtias (no facilities) and Megalos Mourtias (plenty of them), Rousoum (“customs post” in Turkish -- from where wine used to be exported), Glyfa and Aghios Dimitrios ( a lovely spot) are the most accessible, Vythisma less so. Longer routes, at different starting points, await those in good physical condition.
There are also several dirt roads for those traveling by either motorbike or another sturdy vehicle -- preferably in the 4x4 category -- especially on the western side, which has the least accessible beaches. The roads don’t usually go all the way to the beaches, which are usually hidden behind olive groves or pine forests, so you’ll have to walk. They are all different -- Agalou Laka, Kefalas and Plaka being the highlights -- and all have small pebbles and deep, crystal-clear blue waters. The only problem is they have no natural shade and no facilities (these are only found on the eastern coast) so you may need to take a beach umbrella.
A particular feature of Alonissos is that the northern and the southern parts have differing floras. The latter is covered with an endless Aleppo pine forest (Pinus halepensis), interrupted only by olive groves on the slopes and shrubland with dozens of aromatic plants. Blooming orchids can even be seen in June. The northern part is dominated by strawberry trees (Arbutus unedo), Holm oak (Quercus ilex L.) and oak trees.
How to get there
From Aghios Constantinos, 150 km from Athens, a ferry leaves Mondays to Saturdays at 9.30 a.m. and at 3 p.m. on Sundays, and takes four hours. From Volos, high-speed boats sail daily (3 hours), with regular ferries (about 5 hours), sailing on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday (Volos Port Authority, tel 24210.28888). Τhe nearest airport is on Skiathos, from where the ferry takes an hour and 45 minutes. Rent a bike or car on the island, as the bus only goes to one beach, Steni Valla. Area phone code: 24240; health center: 65208.
