This is one of the country’s shortest rivers, 32 kilometers in all from its source on Mount Lykaio, where the districts of Messenia and Arcadia meet, to the Gulf of Kyparissia on the Ionian Sea. But it is certainly not short of natural endowments and its ancient name probably reflects that they have long been appreciated.
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According to one version of the myth, when Rhea gave birth to Zeus, she placed the baby in the care of the nymph Neda, a water deity, in order to protect the infant from her husband Cronus, who devoured his children as he feared that he was destined to be overthrown by one of them. Neda breast-fed and washed the baby at a spring on Mount Lykaio. In gratitude, Rhea named another nearby river after her.
The Neda river gorge, surrounded by olive groves as well as fig, plane and holm oak trees, is a haven for adventurous trekkers. If you consider yourself one of them, the best time to visit is during the summer months, when designated routes include places to take a dip, offering respite from the heat. River crossings are done in groups and requires special equipment. For the rest of the year, the rushing waters make it impossible to cross.
Nevertheless, springtime walks in the area can be rewarding enough for the less adventurous, but the landscape is demanding and temperatures are cool, so take appropriate walking shoes and adequate clothing.
The most spectacular spot is near the village of Platania on the southern bank, where the river forms two beautiful high waterfalls that end in natural pools. Visitors to Platania will find cafes and tavernas offering fine views of the gorge and the sea in the distance.
A little further downriver is Stomio, a large, magnificent cave through which the river flows and which the ancients had identified as the entrance to Hades. It is inhabited by pigeons and bats.
A trek of moderate difficulty around this area, taking about three hours, begins from the road above the Tower of Barba Alekos at Platania, a cafe with marvelous views. Take a right turn and after about 4 kilometers you will come to a cement bridge over the river, a short distance from ancient Phigaleia on the northern bank. From the tower there, you can see Stomio with binoculars. Follow the riverbed and make a stop at Tsoulouchas’s mill, at the stone bridge. Continue to Stomio’s entrance. If you climb up on the right, you will come to the waterfalls. Here, you can see the Chapel of Panaghia -- with an allegedly miraculous icon found in a recess of the rock above it -- and, possibly, brave the cool waters of the natural pool. You can continue along the riverbed and enter a tunnel, about 80 meters long, before ascending to the spring of the Chapel of Aghios Panteleimonas, outside the village of Kallitsaina.
Another interesting spot is Kouvelas’s bridge, further upriver, about 7 kilometers from the village of the same name, which makes for a rewarding walk.
About 20 kilometers south of the Platania cafe lies the tidy village of Kopanaki, which has hosted a street bazaar every Sunday for about 100 years, attracting people from the all around wider district. At one end of the bazaar, Kyr-Panayiotis sells a traditional sweet called “pasta” and syrupy kataifi.
A stop at one of the tavernas in the square, where they serve excellent roast pork, is a must -- but be prepared to forget your regular table manners, as the delicious food is consumed by hand.
How to get there
The town of Kyparissia, 255 kilometers from Athens and some 25 km south of the Neda estuary, is the best base for exploring the area. It is about three hours at most from Athens by car via Tripoli and the road to Kalamata. You can also go straight to the Neda area by turning right toward Andritsaina and Psari. Intercity buses from Athens leave from 100 Kifissou Street (tel 210.513.4273/93). Alternatively, coming from the coastal city of Pyrgos, turn left at Tholo toward Lepreo and Nea Phigaleia, and continue to Petralona, from where the river gorge is visible.
What to see & activities
See the ancient Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae, about 10 kilometers north of Neda, a UNESCO World Heritage site; the picturesque village of Kouvelas, 7 km from the river. On the way, take a diversion on the paved road to see the Stichio spring; visit the lush traditional village of Psari, an old trading and farming hub, and a 700-year-old cypress tree nearby. Contact Costas Karabelas of the Association of Friends of Neda, at 6944.830.469, for summer tours in the area
info: By Haris Argyropoulos ekathimerini
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