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Admittedly, the first sight of Hora as the boat comes into dock is a bit of a letdown. As in a large number of other resorts, the development that accompanied the 1970s tourism boom resulted in a proliferation of poorly styled concrete buildings. But the castle and the impressive medieval mansions -- complete with coats of arms -- that surround it above the harbor area go some way toward balancing the picture.
Once you get behind the port, it is a pleasure to explore the narrow alleyways of the original settlement, adorned with overhanging bougainvillea at every step, up to the quaint medieval Latin quarter with the old Catholic Cathedral and the Archaeological Museum. Excavations below Cathedral Square revealed the remains of a Mycenean-era settlement, from 1600-1100 BC.
The island’s emblem, the Portara, is the imposing entry to the ancient Temple of Apollo, which was never finished due to numerous wars. It stands on an islet on the northern side of the port.
The inner part of the island, dotted with villages, offers endless possibilities for hiking and exploration. The village of Sagri, with its two Venetian towers, sits in the middle of a plain strewn with small Byzantine churches.
There is also the restored Archaic-era temple of the goddess Demeter in Gyroulas, with an interesting museum, and the impressive, 17th-century Bazaios Tower nearby, which hosts thematic exhibitions and the annual Naxos Festival, from July to September.
Halki, the old commercial center, with neoclassical mansions and two Venetian towers, is well known for Vallindras lemon liqueur, Galanis’s syrupy custard pies (galaktoboureko) and Yiannis’s homemade jams.
Nestled in a hillside, lush Apiranthos (or Aperathou) is a listed traditional settlement and perhaps Naxos’s most beautiful village. It is a must for visitors to the island, if only for strolling around, admiring its architectural heritage and its four excellent museums (archaeological, folk history, geological and natural history). It also has an exhibition of locally woven textiles and is a base for excellent country walks and treks. One such option is to the village of Danakos, hidden at the bottom of a gorge leading to the sea, and the fortified Monastery of Fotodotis, with fine views of the sea.
Near the northernmost fishing village of Apollonas, outside an ancient marble quarry, lies unfinished a 10.5-meter-long Archaic statue of a kouros, evidently abandoned around 600 BC, after it broke while being sculpted.
Returning to Hora from the northwestern route the landscape changes, with steep drops into the sea, orchards and farming plots. This is the least inhabited and visited part of Naxos -- some would say romantic and paradisiacal, like acclaimed author Nikos Kazantzakis, who lived in the Eggares Valley for a time.
The holiday hub begins at Aghios Prokopis, some 4 kilometers south of Hora. From here the visitor will find a seemingly endless series of beaches, starting with Aghia Anna, Plaka and Kastraki, with stretches of the local cedar variety amid the sand dunes. The area is a haven for watersports.
How to get there
Naxos is 102 nautical miles from Piraeus and high-speed boats take less than five hours, but there are also slower (and cheaper) boats. There are also connections with other Cycladic islands. Call Hellenic Seaways (210.419.9000) or Blue Star Ferries (210.891.9800). You can also get to Naxos from Athens by plane in about half an hour. There are ample car- and motorbike-hire facilities and frequent bus departures for the villages and the beaches. Useful phone numbers (area code: 22850): port authority: 22300, health center: 23333, police: 22100.
isit the archaeological, Byzantine and Venetian museums in town. A good buy for trekkers is the Anavasi Touring & Hiking Map of Naxos, which can be ordered from www.themapshop.co.uk/ europe/rest/greece.htm. The N-1 trek route, with yellow signposts, starts at the bus terminal in Hora and takes you inland through town. Routes are combined with bus departures.
info: ekathimerini Haris Argyropoulos
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